St Nicholas' Church, Castle Hedingham

St Nicholas Church, Castle Hedingham is both a living church and a historic building. It dates from the early part of the 12th Century, although there was certainly a church on the present site before that. The present building has substantial surviving Norman architecture, but has been altered and added to in each century since it was built. From the outside, there is a clear mix of medieval flint and stone work, a tower which dates from the 17th Century (but which is built from brick that looks one hundred years earlier), 18th Century brick buttresses and 19th Century windows to the nave.

The churchyard cross (centre of the picture at the top of this page) is passed as one approaches the church from Falcon Square. It was erected in its present position in 1921, having been used as a support in the cellar of the Falcon Inn for hundreds of years. The base and the cross itself are modern - the cross is now used as the war memorial - but the pillar is early Norman, with richly carved decoration on all four sides.

None of the changes have detracted from the church's appeal; on the contrary, it now represents a fascinating collage of local history, the building reflecting the changes in fashion, architecture and worship. In many cases, changes reflect the highs and lows of the de Vere family, earls of Oxford for almost 600 years, who built the castle and patronised the church. Their influence is everywhere; their two main heraldic devices were a star (or mullet) and a blue boar. These can be found all over the church, and indeed on other buildings both in Castle Hedingham and elsewhere across East Anglia.

St Nicholas is set apart, though, by the fact that it appears to have "borrowed" materials from buildings at the castle. Stonework and brick were re-used; I think that it's probable that this explains the tower bricks being apparently of earlier date than its construction. It was built at about the same time that the Tudor outbuildings of the castle were demolished. This theory ties in perfectly with the badges above the tower's West window (pictured above); they are those of John de Vere, 13th earl of Oxford, who helped Henry VII to the throne in 1485 by commanding his vanguard at Bosworth.

The church building retains many of its Norman features, including - very unusually - three Norman doors. One of these can be seen clearly on the picture of the chancel (above), complete with its original ironwork.

The relief creature in the ironwork of the Skin Door

The South door (above) conforms to an Essex tradition; it is known as the Skin Door, because (so tradition has it) the skin of a church robber was nailed to it as a deterrent to would-be thieves. Apparently, traces of human skin were found when the door was renovated in the 19th Century. The door is extremely heavy, and has offered little chance of a quiet entry to latecomers to church for over 800 years. The iron work, which is also well preserved, includes an animal of some sort in relief (above right). I think it may be a boar, one of the symbols of the de Vere family.

This picture shows the clerestory, which has alternate boars and mullets above each window; you will be able to make them out on the enlarged image. The brickwork of the clerestory is Tudor.

This is the east wall of the Chancel. The east window is reputed to be one of only five surviving Norman wheel windows. It is one of the glories of St Nicholas Church; visit my next page for a view of its stained glass from the inside. One of the shallow Norman buttresses is just visible in my picture; poised close to its top on a horizontal ledge running beneath the window is a creature. I think it's some sort of cat, but it's described by the Church guide book as a "basilisk or lizard dragon". It's very weathered, so it's hard to be certain. it always seems to be ready to pounce - a footpath runs directly beneath.

Close to the south door - the Skin Door - is an external stoup (above). This is quite an unusual feature; the guide book suggests that it may well have had a hinged cover, and been used by "passers-by in a hurry."

The official website of St Nicholas' Church covers the church community, with details of events and services, etc.

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